It was raining, again, when I woke up. Looking out the window, I could see that it wasn't going to let up soon. This was unfortunate, as I had hoped for some nice weather since I would be doing a long ride down the Dordogne river and was looking forward to a nice day. I cooked some eggs for breakfast, took a shower, and started packing. It had been a 6 days since the accident and the bruise on my hip was 12 inches in diameter.
I had asked the day before to find a boulangerie and fruit stands that would be open on Sunday. I stopped by them to buy bread and fruit for the day's ride. When I left, the main street was deserted.
While I didn't have a map to the bike path, I was told where to pick it up. This required riding main streets on wet pavement with very little shoulder. It was a bit nerve-racking but my mirror helped and the traffic was fairly light. It took about 20 minutes to find the bike path, a railroad converted into a sliver of tarmac through trees.
I was on the trail for about 12 miles. It was wet, drippy, and a bit foggy. I saw a few bike riders. It rained so hard that I had to put on my rain jacket and shower cap.
The road was built on a high bank and offered a nice view when I passed a village or pond.
This old railroad bridge was cold and damp.
At Rouffillac, I crossed to the south side of the river
and went back onto roads.
I was now following the bends in the river over gently rolling hills.
I managed to get under a bridge just as the skies opened up. I had some food while I waited for the rain to stop. I met these three people shortly after the rain stopped.
We talked for about 20 minutes. The woman had lots of snacks that they were trying to get rid of. I ate some cookies and took some peanuts they didn't want. I don't remember their names but they were British. The bike riding couple was on the last day of their tour. They had hired a company to plan their route, book their hotels and meals, and carry their bags from place to place. They had enjoyed their time but lamented that they didn't lose any weight. The price they paid (about 1000 pounds for the two of them for a week) seemed outrageous to me, but between nice hotels, two restaurant meals, bike rental, baggage forwarding and profit, it didn't seem so out of line. We talked for a while and then a car pulled up. It was another Englander stopped to eat and chat.
As I went along, the cliffs along the river showed more exposed rock.
The river would be my companion all day.
On the other side of the road or across the valley, there were often dramatic eroded cliffs.
I also passed by some tiny villages.
This old mill was right next ot the road. I didn't see the waterfall until I heard it as I rode over the little bridge spanning this side river.
The mill was in a dramatic location.
I believe this is a railroad bridge over the valley.
The roads I was on crossed the river several times. Some of the bridges were attractively designed.
I got lost trying to find my way to a small country road near St. Denis-les-Martel. At one point, the road I was on hit a dead-end at some one's house. As I stood there checking my map, a woman came out and asked if I needed help. She directed me back to a junction about half a mile back up the road. A bit further on, I hit another dead-end at St. Denis-les-Martel, an attractive village right on the Dordogne river. I stopped at a nice looking hotel, got some water, and asked for more directions. When I got out, it started to rain hard and I waited under a canopy until the rain diminished.
By this time, it was getting late and the sky looked unfriendly. I came upon the village of Carennac.
As I rode past an openning I saw this archway and had to stop.
Here are the village's walls and a view up an alley next to the road.
Right after I took these pictures, the rain intensified and didn't slacken. The last 10 miles to St. Cere, my goal for the day, were on a busy road in steady rain. I arrived completely soaked and ready to get off the bike. I followed the signs to the city center and got a room at the first hotel I saw right on the town square. The proprietors were a young, very nice, couple who offered to dry my clothes in their machine.
I rested a short while, took a shower, and went out to eat something. It was after 8:30 and still raining hard. I checked out an Asian-style restuarant but decided on an Italian place on a small square in the old part of town. I had a very nice eggplant parmesan and a half bottle of wine. I walked back to the hotel and collapsed into bed.