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5 Years Later: Another tour from San Francisco to Laguna Beach
Day 3: More Big Sur

Date Starting Place Ending Place Author Last Update

04-17-09 Kirk Creek Campground,
California, United States
San Simeon,
California, United States
ray 12-10-13 11:16:30

 
Every time I've camped in Kirk Creek Campground, I have woken up with a dew-covered rain fly. As a result, I hang around camp waiting for the sun to come over the mountains and through the trees and dry the rain fly.

While I waited for the sun, I made some oatmeal for breakfast and then sat in the tent and read more of the Michael Connelly book. By 8:30 the sun was shining on the campground but it didn't get around to drying my tent for about an hour. In the meantime, I ate, cleaned up, washed a set of biking clothes, and packed up my gear. I was ready to leave by about 10am.

As I was leaving, I checked for the campground host to ask about the hiker/biker site being used by non-hiker/bikers. But, I couldn't find him.

I took this picture shortly after exiting Kirk Creek Campground. As it shows, there was just a wisp of fog hugging the coast making it just cool enough for leg warmers.



Another thing this picture shows is just how desolate this part of the coast is. Note there are no trees and very little brush on the hillsides. Also visible up the hill was recent fire damage.

A mile or two down the road is Pacific Valley.



There are no houses and very little development in Pacific Valley and I always think that it represents undeveloped coastline.

Again, no shoulder but no traffic, either.



This patch of color is in front of a raised parking area. It has been planted there (so much for undeveloped coastline!), but looks nice, anyway.



Here is a look north, back toward Kirk Creek.



Just past Pacific Valley is the Plaskett Creek Campground. I've never stayed there but it also has a hiker/biker site (and no showers).



A short way past Plaskett Creek Campground is another place to camp called Treebones Resort, which has yurts that look over the coast from the top of a rise. I was told that you could pitch a tent there, as well.



The "town" of Gorda is 5 miles south of Kirk Creek. Gorda offers a bit more than Lucia in that it has a gas station, in addition to a restaurant, a store, and lodging.



I usually stop at the restaurant for a meal before tackling the big hill just south of Gorda. The restaurant stops serving breakfast about 11 and so I ordered a Vegi-burger that came with a side of French Fries ($14). While I was eating, I saw the two lightweight bike tourers and we exchanged a few words. They wanted to check out the lodging options.

The big hill of the day starts right past Gorda. It is a 6 mile, M-shaped crawl that zig-zags along the cliffs. It is a bit of a thigh-burner.

On my way up the second peak of the M, I found the lightweight tourers checking out a metal sculptor whose studio is right off the road. We talked for a short while and then rode together for the next few miles to Ragged Point.



Ragged Point marks the end of Big Sur for the southbound cyclist. Right after the the largish resort, there is a downhill to flat ranch lands of San Simeon. The Ragged Point Inn is a stopping point for tourist buses and car drivers looking for some fast food and cyclists looking for some shade and a place to sit.



At the bottom of the Ragged Point downhill another creek meets the ocean. If you look in the distance on the right hand side of the photo, you can see the trees of the Ragged Point Inn.



Once out of Big Sur, the coast becomes flat and the wind picks up.



But, that doesn't mean that the stunning views disappear.



The east side of the highway is pastures. Throughout this whole section of the ride, I saw these blue patches in the fields and on the hillsides.



They consisted of bunches of this blue and white wildflower.



On the beach side of the highway, the male elephant seals are busy protecting their harems and the females lazily flick warm sand on themselves.



The ones in the water were much more animated then those laying on the beach.



Hearst's Castle is located up in the hills (you can see it on the right-side of this picture).



Yet another river emptying out into the sea.



Just opposite the turn-in for Hearst's Castle is the William Randolph Hearst State Memorial Beach. Here is a look back the beach, pier, and wooded area that make up the Memorial Beach.



Just down the road from there is the tourist town of San Simeon, which fronts both sides of Highway 1 for about half a mile. It is mostly motels, restaurants, and small stores. I like the El Chorlito Mexican Restaurant, but it is more for filling food than gourmet eats.

Just past this town is San Simeon State Park. It is a flat spot with lots of camping sites that are usually reserved by RVers, car campers, and motorcyclists. They charge $2 for a hiker/biker site that is right next to Highway 1. Luckily, the road is elevated and has very little traffic once the sun goes down. You can also walk under an overpass and onto the beach, if you want.

I rode in, dropped off my gear, and took a shower. I came back, set-up my camp, and rested while reading more of my novel. About 30 minutes after I checked-in the entire area around me was filled up by college students from CSULB (Long Beach) on a field trip. They had lots of wood, food, beer and seemed to be having a good time. It was a bit jarring to see all these people where a few minutes before was empty camp sites.

I decided against cooking pasta for dinner and, instead, snacked on peanuts, raisins and M&Ms. When the sun went down, I retreated into my tent, read a bit, and went to sleep.



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