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| Date | Starting Place | Ending Place | Author | Last Update |
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| 07-15-13 |
St. Mary, Montana, United States |
Fish Creek Campground, Montana, United States |
ray | 11-12-13 19:30:01 |
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I was sleeping pretty good until Floyd got up and went to the bathroom and I head a loud buzzing sound. I didn't know what the sound was, but it kept me awake for a long time. It turned out he left the fan on. I was groggy when I finally got up about 5:45. I wanted to be out by 7, and I figured an hour to get out, including a shower. I ate breakfast and started packing up while Floyd showered. When he was done, I was close to ready to go, so I went without a shower (now 2 days without one) and I was out the door a bit after 7. I got a photo of Floyd on my way out.  After a short ride back into town, I turned onto Going to the Sun Road (GTTSR). I was quickly past the few motels at the junction and back into Glacier National Park.  The wonderful views of the surrounding mountains were a great way to start a ride I'd heard so much about. I really liked the way the trees give way to granite in this photo.  Of course, the distant vistas had the jagged peaks and snow patches I've come to equate with Glacier NP.  It was cool and breezy, but it was a tailwind for the run along St. Mary's Lake, which is how Going to the Sun Road starts after a quick left turn after the entrance. There were very few cars on the road at this hour and all were courteous. Now, in addition to the beautiful views, there was a lake in the foreground.  The road is flat for the first 6 miles along the lake's north shore. There are grassy sections  creeks,  forests,  and incredible mountains views.  The climb starts at the Narrows, a pinch point in Saint Mary Lake. The road moves up at a steady pace and soon provides wonderful lake vistas.  The tiny bit of land is called Wild Goose Island and there is a pull-out where I took the photo. A bit more climbing provided this panorama.  The morning sun gleaming off the lake was far more impressive than even this pretty photo shows.  Once the initial climb is over, the grade stays steady. While it requires exertion, once I got into a rhythm, I made steady progress. But, the views were so spectacular, that I was constantly stopping to take photos,  stare, and take more photos.  Toward the end of the lake, which was no longer in view, I passed Baring Creek, which plunges below the road.  I was passed by several bike tourists. The first one said something about the wind and was out of sight fairly quickly. The next guy was with a buddy (who had already passed me) riding across the US after college. They were in a hurry since his buddy needed to be in Seattle by a nearby date. They were doing big mileage every day and after about a mile riding at his pace, I decided not to try and keep up and he rode off. I was impressed by having the desire to do such an adventure at a young age. But, I was also a bit saddened by the pace they had accepted to do it. Already, job pressures were forcing them to make decisions choosing haste over enjoyment. The road was lined with trees. Regularly, the view would open up, and I would stop to get yet another photo of peaks jutting above the tree line,  snow bedecked mountains,  and shrinking glaciers.  I slowly climbed to and then above the treeline. As the trees thinned, it was easier to see the steams of run-off.  Here is the bigger image.  The sight of a huge glacier in mid-July was, to me, astounding.  There is a big turn, close to 180 degrees, which is most of the way up to the top. Siyeh Creek comes down, flows under the road, and keeps going down to the lake.  A number of hikes start here and there is a fair amount of both parking and traffic. This photo shows both the creek making its way down and, up to the right, the road moving higher.  After the turn, the trees fell away, the horizon opened up, and the views become hard to believe. I saw huge glacier carved mountains,  long undeveloped vistas,  wildflowers,  and an enormous valley containing a large waterfall and topped by a pointed peak.  The waterfall was unexpected and spectacular.  It was too much to take in, even on a bicycle! The road kept on its steady climb but I could now see the top.  The tunnel is maybe 50 feet in length. In this section, I rode next to a sheer cliff with water running off it.  The views across what what now a huge glacial bowl were now simply stunning.  The waterfall in the above photo becomes Lunch Creek.  At one turn, a guy pointed up and said "big horns: as I rode by.  Near the top of the pass, I got this look back down the valley.  When I got to the top, it was 11:30 and the travel restrictions meant that I couldn't go all the way down until 4pm. I checked out the visitor center, which houses a ranger station, gift shop, bathrooms, and little else. I sat in the warm sun, ate some food, and watched the constant parade of people, cars, buses, and bicycles. The bicycles racks were completely full of loaded touring bikes (but, I forgot to get a photo)! I got to talking with two of the riders who'd passed me on the way up while we all were settling in for the 4+ hour wait. Drew was just finishing college and studying to be a teacher. Drew was riding with George, a family friend to meet up with his dad Don. Don was 50-something, a nurse, and a nice man who was tall and athletic and easy to talk with. George was a 65 year old man who was born in Germany, lived in England and other places and now lived in Canada. He was a gruff fellow who reminded me a bit of Floyd, my host last night in St. Mary without the entertaining stories. He seemed to know or have done everything, could do anything, and certainly never needed any input from me or anyone else, as far as I could tell. I liked spending time with Don and Drew, but had no interest in spending much time with George. It didn't help that by profession he was a butcher. Drew liked to ask odd questions out of nowhere, such as, "What is the best tour you ever took?" Or, "What is the best thing about being human?" Or, "What do you like best about bike touring?" I tried to answer than as best I could and some even led to some interesting discussion. We decided to walk along the Highline Trail, which I knew from the backpacker I'd met in Many Glacier. The hike starts just opposite the Visitor's Center and goes north along the ridge of mountains that make up the Continental Divide through Glacier NP. Once across the highway and out on the trail, I was looking at the other side of the mountains I'd just ridden up. There was another huge glacial bowl with snow-covered mountains in the distance. The view was breathtaking.  This waterfall is just below, and a short ways past, the start of the trail.  This zoomed photo shows the sharp, jagged peaks at the other end of the bowl.  The trail wends its way along the edge of the canyons. It was steep enough that Mountain Goats felt at home there.  In addition to sweeping vistas, waterfalls, and goats, we walked past meadows full of sweet smelling Bear Grass.  The scale of things in Glacier NP is enormous.  My hiking companions George, Don, and Drew at a sunny rest stop.  This photo shows the road going down/up on the west side of Logan Pass.  We saw more goats. This guy was too cute to pass by.  Grass, snow, and mountains, a succinct description of the Highline Trail.  Anywhere there was snow, there was water, often falling. Here is a typical example.  This is a view up a glacially cut valley.  Our original thought was to walk to another tram stop and bus back up to our bikes. But, at the 4 mile mark, we discovered it was another 7 miles, so we turned around and walked back to the visitor's center through all the same wonderful scenery. I hadn't taken any extra food and barely enough water for this length of hike. I was tired and hungry by the time we reached the center. I took down the double snickers, the only "quick" food I had on the bike (no food is sold at the visitor's center). The obligatory Logan Pass photo.  Once on the bike, the coast down was exhilarating. I didn't want to zoom past all the fabulous sights but I didn't want to stop too often either. I felt this waterfall, just above the road, deserved a stop.  Given all the natural beauty, I was also struck by the road. It jutted out of the cliff as if it was paved right over the rocks.  The road provides views into valleys that run off the main one. Even at speed, I had to stop for a photo.  In addition to long valley draining creeks, there was also waterfalls.  In case the broad vistas were getting boring, there was always the wildflowers.  Haystack Creek was the entertainment at one road pull-out.  The road was festooned with sharp curves and cars had to watch their speed. A slow car was leading a line of about 10 cars in front of me and the slope of the road meant that I could pass this line of cars by whipping around them one at a time. It was a bit risky as I was having to move in to the opposing lane, but very satisfying to see the looks on the drivers as they were passed by a loaded bicycle. After several miles of steep down, the road got less steep and at the bottom comes along side MacDonald Creek.  The wind kicked in and I had to pedal and hope I could make it to the campground as I now getting tired. At a road works, I was told to wait until the line of cars, several of which I'd passed while in line, had gone past. The gravel section was dusty until it was wetted down, in which case it then become a bit muddy! At least the views of the creek were pretty!  I soldiered on, eventually getting to pavement, again. A short while later, I saw Don and Drew waiting for George, whom I'd seen fixing a flat up the hill. We waited for a few minutes and then we decided to wait at MacDonald lodge. While riding there, I stopped to take a photo and off they went. When I got to the lodge, I was hungry and I decided to check out the restaurant. I got a veggie bean burger and fries, both of which were quite good. Afterward, I came out and saw Drew riding around. George had arrived and off they rode when I said I wanted to get something sweet at the store. At one place, I stopped to take a photo and up rides Don, Drew, and George. Apparently, Don and Drew decided to play some basketball before continuing the ride. I thought that they must be a bit tired after all that riding and hiking, I sure was, but figure it was a bit of father-son rivalry. Don, a head taller than Drew, won. We rode in a pace line for several miles but eventually, I got tired of trying to keep close to Drew's wheel and fell back.  I still had to ride the long way down Lake MacDonald. On any other day, I would have stopped and taken several photos of this large, pretty bit of water. But, after all I'd seen today, it was just another bit of water. I only took this one photo.  The guys waited to say good bye at the entrance to Apgar, where they were camping. I was tempted to join them and end the day right there, but I wanted a shower. I continued on to Fish Creek, which turned out to be up a long hill that I didn't appreciate. Once there and set up, I discovered that the showers had no not water. I was seriously bummed out, ate a half a peanut butter sandwich, some M&Ms, and went to bed. Reflecting on the day while dozing off in my tent, I couldn't remember a better day I've had riding a bicycle. |
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